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By: Paul S Cilwa |
Posted: 8/15/2010 |
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Page Views: 1,970 |
| Hashtags: #VerdeHotSpring #Perseids |
| Michael and I spend a weekend at Verde Hot Springs to enjoy the Perseid meteor shower. |
| Estimated reading time: 16 minute(s) (3619 words) |
Michael has no classes on Fridays this quarter; and I had
arranged to take the day off. So we decided to wake up when we woke
up, which turned out to be around 8 AM. We then had to pack the
car…except, I wound up doing that as Michael suddenly felt
the need to wash dishes and laundry.
But we made it to the campground by about 2:30 pm, where we found
our friend, Eddie, and a couple of other guys with him, already
there.
I knew one of the guys: A fellow named Gordon, who I'd talked
with several times before. He was one of those people who, like
Eddie, frequents Verde Hot Spring enough to be thought of as a
regular. The other guy, Robert, was a friend of Eddie's from
Prescott, who had come with him to have a camping experience,
something he'd wanted to try for some time.
As early as it was, we were too late to grab the prime
campsite, and had to settle for second-best, which wasn't quite as
level as I'd have preferred. Still…we were on the bank of the
Verde River, and the nearest paved road was some 20 miles away.
The Verde River in this section is about a thousand feet higher
in altitude than Phoenix, and therefore some 10°-20° cooler. But
Phoenix was about 108° (according to my phone) so it was still too
darned hot. We tried sitting in the shade of the cottonwoods,
shifting with the sun as the day passed, but the flies were
relentless. I don't remember flies ever being a problem here;
but they sure were this day. Michael broke himself a willow branch
and used it to switch them away. I was too lazy to do that and just
swatted at myself, scratching my ankles with the toes of the
opposite foot.
Let me describe Gordon. He's about six-one, with blonde hair
going to gray, and claims to be 46 years old. He is slim and muscular, and was wearing swim
trunks without shirt or shoes. He is also, so he had told me on previous visits, straight, with a
coterie of girlfriends and an ex-wife.
One of his girlfriends left him and is now dating his stepfather.
Where is Jerry Springer when we need him?
Gordon was monopolizing the conversation, which was interesting
because it meant Michael couldn't. Gordon was a font of trivia,
which he would introduce with, "Didja know…?" Such as,
"Didja know that there are 11,000 fuckin' species of ants in the United
States?" The fact that we hadn't been talking about ants, or any
ant-related subjects, seemed to be irrelevant. It also didn't
discourage him, since he jumped from subject to subject as nimbly as
a ballet dancer on stage, from ants to plants to flowers to bees to
pollen to trees to birds to ant-eating birds and back to ants.
These aren't subjects in which I'm knowledgeable; so I didn't
really have any contribution to make. But when Gordon announced that
he is diabetic, I, of course, wanted to educate him about toxins,
since that's what's going on in my life right now. However, every
word I said—and I mean that literally—brought forth a rebuttal
that made it impossible for me to get a single concept out.
"We're surrounded by toxins—" I started to say, but he
interrupted.
"Not 'surrounded'. Oxygen isn't a fuckin' toxin. Fuckin' nitrogen
isn't a toxin."
It also appeared that the F-word was Gordon's only adjective and
adverb, and one he sprinkled liberally into everything he said.
"Uh, right. But they carry plenty of toxic molecules. And these
come in two types: water-soluble, which the body quickly disposes,
and—"
Another interruption: "Not if you have fuckin' kidney disease, or
even fuckin' scar tissue in the fuckin' ureter."
It was clear that, in a battle of two know-it-alls, he was going
to take first prize. So I gave up. I decided to soak in the river,
whose water this time of year is generally about 70°. Eddie decided
to join me.
The water felt wonderful, and it was even better to be away from
the flies…and Gordon, who I decided had the charm of one. The
water was still somewhat muddy from the monsoon rains of a week or
so before, but I didn't intend to go snorkeling so that was no
problem.
"So," I mentioned to Eddie after we had waded and swam a ways
upstream, "it appears Gordon doesn't take in new information very
well."
"Not when he's been drinking," Eddie agreed.
"He's been drinking?" I am quite naive in these things, I admit
it. If I have two drinks, I fall asleep. So I really have no
experience in seeing what my friends, or people in general, look or
act like when drunk.
"Oh, yeah," Eddie acknowledged. "Since we got here. What
did you think was in that huge coffee mug he's been guzzling from?"
I shrugged. "I kind of thought it was coffee…"
Eddie left after awhile but I remained in the river until the sun
sank beneath the hills lining the valley. When I returned to camp,
Michael was ready to take a turn and I happily got back in the water
with him.
Hunger made us return to camp. As it got dark the flies lost
interest and it cooled somewhat. Michael and I had decided not to
cook on this trip. We had some chicken/pecan/cranberry salad from
Fresh & Easy that we unwrapped and ate.
Gordon was still enraptured by his own stream-of-consciousness
monologue. Now he was talking about his physical ailments, which
included neuropathy and diabetes, two conditions that frequently
accompany one another.
"I've had to fuckin' fire six doctors," he announced. "I had
to fire them. What's the point of going to a fuckin' doctor who
knows less about fuckin' medicine than I do?"
"You've been to medical school?" I asked, a little impishly.
"Hell, no," Gordon replied. "I never even went to fuckin' high
school. But I can fuckin' read."
Gordon's speech was deteriorating; it appeared he was continuing
to drink. But then he said something about needing to take his
insulin. I suddenly recalled that low-blood sugar is often mistaken
for inebriation. Gordon stood up and almost fell over. I ran over to
steady him, and assisted him to his truck, which involved avoiding
fallen branches and muddy ruts in the dark. Trembling, his hands
managed to break the lancet device for drawing a drop of blood so he
could see exactly how much insulin he needed. "Fuck it!" he managed
to say. "I only need the insulin if I eat. I won't fuckin' eat, and
that'll solve that problem."
"I think you also need the insulin if you drink," I
pointed out. He stared at me, then repeated, "Fuck. What's the point
of camping if I can't drink?"
But he wouldn't take any insulin (and without the blood sugar
measurement, I can't blame him) and I never did see him eat all
weekend.
I got very sleepy. Eddie was tired, too, and announced that he
was going to take a "nap" and about 1:30 would get up and go to the
spring, if anyone wanted to join him, to see the falling stars from
there. That sounded good to me, and I crawled into our tent and
closed my eyes. Sometime later, Michael must have joined me.
I awoke in the night, 2:45 am according to my cell phone. Camp
was very quiet. I could see Eddie's silhouette in his hammock
through the tent window, and had to assume Robert was in his
tent. Gordon had a bed in his truck, parked behind Robert's tent.
So, apparently, no one had made the night trek to the spring.
But I could see the stars overhead. When I erected the tent, I
knew it would not rain so I did not put on the fly. Thus I had an
unobstructed view of the moonless, star-studded sky. And, as I
looked, I saw ephemeral streaks far, far above. They were the
Perseid meteoroids, remnants of the Swift-Tuttle comet, kissing the
upper atmosphere before coming to ashy ends.
The Milky Way was almost directly overhead, and the streaks coming
from it were very dim; I wouldn't have been able to see them if I
hadn't been wearing my for-distance contact lenses, which I'd kept
in.
The Perseids are a meteor show that comes along every year at
this time. They are remnants of the Swift-Tuttle comet, just chunks
of dirty ice and frozen gases, that break away from the comet each
time it approaches the sun. Since the comet intersects Earth's
orbit, every time Earth reaches that point in its orbit, it
intersects thousands of the frozen snowballs which then flame across
the sky as they heat up in our atmosphere. The Perseids, named
because they appear to radiate from the constellation Perseus, were
first reported about 2000 years ago by Chinese astronomers.
Meteor showers occur at various times throughout the year, always
on the same dates, with different names depending on where they
"seem" to come from. Many people, such as Michael and I, will drive
hours to get far enough into the country to watch them, even though
what we are watching, which beautiful, is, after all, destruction of
a sort. Even then, though, nothing is wasted. Something like 12 tons
of cometary dust is estimated to enter our atmosphere each day; that
dust eventually makes it to the surface where it turns into plants,
which turn into animals, which turn into us. From that sense, even a
fiery end is really a beginning.
On a normal (non-meteor shower) night, if you stare at an
unobstructed sky, you can see about four falling stars every hour.
In 2009, on the peak night of August 13, there were an average of
173 every hour. This year was a little less, only about 142. And the
peak was last night. Still, there were plenty to be seen.
And, as with all meteor showers, the rate is greatest in the
pre-dawn hours, since the side of the Earth nearest to turning into
the sun scoops up more meteors as the Earth moves through space.
I tapped Michael, who as it turned out was already awake. "Can
you see all those?" I asked.
"No," he said softly. "All what?"
"Those faint streaks."
"No," he replied. "But I've seen several big streaks."
And, just then, a huge, bright fireball tore overhead.
"Cool," I said, approvingly. I watched the show for awhile, then
let myself go back to sleep. When I woke up it was morning and I was
alone in the tent, Michael having preceded me up.
After breakfast we all headed for the hot spring. Robert had never been,
and since Eddie and Gordon left ahead of us I led the way,
explaining the sights—the old, now decommissioned Childs power
plant; the village where the workers used to live with their
families, now only foundations; the old stables where they kept
their horses for riding the lines. There's little left of these
things now, but I like to envision them as they once were: Kids
playing, mothers reading while waiting for time to cook dinner, the
men on horseback making sure no lines had snapped in the most recent
monsoon rain.
By the time we reached the river crossing, we were hot enough to
want to soak in the river to cool off. There's a pond just upstream
of the crossing, and we swam there. We were in no hurry because we
knew that work awaited us at the spring. But eventually we could
tarry no longer, and continued on the trail past the crumbled
remains of the old resort.
I didn't bring my camera, because I've taken so many photos of
the trail to the spring and of the spring itself. But I couldn't
help but picture how the place must have looked in its prime.
Built in 1922, it was said that Verde Hot Spring Resort was very
popular, despite its remote location. It was supposed to have been a
favorite hangout of Al Capone's. But it burnt to the ground in 1962
and was never rebuilt. Talk about falling stars!
All that's left now (besides the rubble) is three pools, one of
which is unusable. Of the other two, one is a smallish cement tub,
big enough for three or maybe four people, in an enclosure whose
roof lasted until 2002, when the spring flood waters rose so high as
to tear it off. And the other is a larger soaking pool, with room
for maybe twenty close friends (but more typically holding five or
ten). Both pools were coated with a thick layer of algae.
By the time Michael, Robert and I arrived, Eddie and Gordon had
already drained and cleaned the smaller tub, which was refilling as
they drained the larger tub. I joined them in it and was handed a
brush with which to scrape the slimy green tendrils away. Robert got
in, too, and filled a bucket with the displaced algae which he
handed to Michael, who slung the contents over the deck into the
river, and then handed the bucket back to Robert.
The interior of the big pool is native rock, even though the deck
looks like that of a normal swimming pool. Now I was sorry I hadn't
brought my camera; I had never gotten a picture of the exposed pool
interior. But here's a picture from a previous trip, to give you an
idea of how it looks when it isn't empty.
Other than developing a bit of a sunburn (and we all were, except
Eddie, who couldn't be any more tan), Gordon seemed to be fine now.
If he was drinking, I couldn't tell. His speech was clear and
he was doing a very competent job of cleaning the pool.
In fact, we were done pretty quickly. The stopper (a small
bowling pin) was put back into the drain; and Eddie reminded us the
pool would take almost three hours to fill.
So, it was back into the river, where the muddy water would
protect most of our bodies from the sun. Only our heads and
shoulders were exposed. Every now and then fish would discover us
and start nibbling; but all we had to do was change locations and
we'd be safe for awhile.
Eddie and Gordon had remained on the deck, so it was just Robert
and Michael and me in the river. "So, what's the deal with Gordon?"
I asked Robert. "You're a neighbor of Eddie's; I didn't realize
Eddie knew Gordon so well."
"I don't think he does," Robert mused. "I've never seen him at
Eddie and Carl's apartment, but I understand he has been there."
(Carl is Eddie's partner, who had plans of his own for this
weekend.) "I also heard that, when Eddie and Carl's friend Tristan
went camping with them, sometime during the night he and Gordon 'got
together'."
"But I thought Gordon was straight," I protested.
Robert shrugged. "That's how he introduced himself to me," he
said. "But, ya know, there's straight and then there's 'straight'."
Eventually the pool had filled and we soaked for a little while;
but, frankly, soaking in 102° water when the air is 104° is less fun
than you'd imagine. Again, Eddie and Gordon left ahead of Michael,
Robert, and I; when we left, we stopped again at the pool by
the crossing and soaked in the cooler water for literally an hour,
maybe two, while chatting about metaphysics, medicine, Robert's life
in Prescott, and ours in Mesa.
Back in camp, I doled out Michael's dinner and mine (turkey and
muenster sandwiches, intended for lunch but suitable for dinner as
well), and we sat.
Gordon was having his usual train-of-thought monologue, which
somehow made its way to his ex-girlfriend who was now dating his
stepfather. "She was the best fuckin' thing that ever happened to
me," he said. "But I could not fuckin' live with her."
"Why not?" I asked, just to create the illusion of being part of
his "conversation".
He shook his head. "I was tweaking," he said. "We were
tweaking." (For those who don't know, "tweaking" is a behavior
pattern typical of methamphetamine users, sometimes used as a
synonym for methamphetamine use.) "Coming down. Making no fuckin'
sense. And she said somethin' that fuckin' pissed me off. So I
pushed her. Hard. And she fuckin' hit the floor. And that was it.
She left then, and fuckin' never came back. It was over between us."
I didn't really know what to say, but was curious. "You said you
were married, before. Was violence what ended that, too?" To be
honest, Gordon had shown no tendency towards violence in my
presence. He was certainly strong, but I didn't feel threatened by
him.
"No way, man," Gordon said. "That was the only time, and that was
when I quit doing meth. Cold fuckin' turkey. I never wanted that
part of me to come out, ever again."
"So, what happened with your wife?"
Gordon compressed his lips into a tight line. "She was LDS," he
said, referring to the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.
"I wasn't, and her family hated that she married me, and were
always fuckin' tryin' to break us up. Her brother was the sheriff of
that county, a fuckin' little Mormon county. I had two sons and a
daughter. One day, deputies come and arrest me…for fuckin' child
molesting!"
At this point, Gordon had our full attention. And, in a rare
moment of lapsed self-absorption, he realized we were all staring at
him.
"Well, I didn't fuckin' do it!" he cried. "I ain't no
child mo'."
We continued to stare.
"Okay," he admitted. "I like men. Older
men. But I was molested, when I was a kid. By a fuckin' Mormon, wouldn't
you know. And there's no way I'd ever fuckin' molest a kid.
Ever."
Robert blurted, "Then they found you innocent, right? I mean,
they can't arrest you without evidence."
I sighed. "Sadly, they can. There have been a number of similar
cases."
"You got that right," Gordon growled. "My
ex-brother-in-law was the law in that county. It was his word
against mine. He caught me in a park blowing
some dude. Well, to the Mormons, that made me gay; and all gay guys
are child molesters, so that was all the evidence he needed.
My sons wound up in foster homes, and there's an injunction against
me even contactin' them. I can't so much as send 'em a fuckin' postcard."
"And your daughter…?" I prompted.
"My ex-wife, she fuckin' married a cop. Well, I figured,
at least my little girl would be safe." Gordon laughed bitterly. "So
guess what. He's been raping her. My little girl! And my
ex-wife, after fifteen years, now she wants me to take my
daughter. Fifteen years! The bitch wants me back, too. I would take
my little girl…but I ain't takin' that bitch back. I don't know if
she could've fuckin' said anything in court to change things, but
fuck, she never even testified in my defense."
Michael asked, "You're getting your daughter back, then?"
"It depends," Gordon responded. "Things are a little rocky with
my new girlfriend. And I gotta fuckin' patch them up, somehow, so I
have a house. If we break up, I'm back to living in my truck, and
they'd never let me keep my daughter like that."
"You don't have your own apartment?" I asked.
"I used to make seven grand a week," Gordon said, grimly.
"Top-notch contractor. Owned my own three-hundred-thousand-dollar
house. But it's fuckin' funny. When you're a registered sex
offender, no one wants to hire you. And you can't even apply
for jobs near schools, or community centers, or anywhere kids hang
out."
If Gordon had been a little more inclined to listen,
I might have pointed out that this is the
primary crime of demonizing homosexuality: Men who are really gay
are so closeted, even to themselves, that they marry women and
father children but cannot completely repress their natural
behavior. I could have pointed out that his use of the F-word several times in
every sentence probably didn't serve him well in court, or in trying
to ingratiate himself to potential employers. Or, I might have
suggested that a tendency to drink and use drugs had undoubtedly
contributed to his inability to bounce back from his misfortunes.
But Gordon wasn't a listener. He was a victim, one of his own
making, and from my point of view, his prognosis didn't look good.
"They fuckin' destroyed my life, man, those fuckin' Mormons." He
took a long sip of God-knows-what from his "coffee" mug, and his
voice broke a little as he added, "And I don't fuckin' know how to
build another one."
Falling stars, indeed.